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Skincare advice from Thu
Your questions. Thu's answers.
Routine
Does my skin need different care in winter?
If heated indoor air and cold weather leave your skin drier, small tweaks often help more than a whole new routine.
Thu's answer
You don't need to switch products just because the season changes. If your skin feels comfortable with your current routine, you can stick with it. Tight cheeks or rough patches, on the other hand, are a good reason to take a closer look: cold outdoor air and dry indoor heating can take a toll on your skin in winter.
It often helps to wash for less time, with lukewarm rather than hot water, and to apply your moisturizer right afterwards. If your light summer moisturizer no longer feels like enough, a richer texture may suit you better – the ETUDE Soon Jung 2x Barrier Intensive Cream is one example. You can start by applying it only to the dry areas instead of using more everywhere.
Please don't automatically exfoliate away flaky patches; irritated winter skin often needs a break from that step. If cracks don't heal, or you have severe itching or pain, see a doctor. Sunscreen still matters on cold days, especially if you spend a long time outdoors or in the snow.
Simplify your routine
How can I simplify my skincare routine?
Cleansing, a suitable moisturizer and sunscreen make a manageable base; every extra step should have a clear reason.
Thu's answer
Start by setting aside any products you're no longer sure you need. For a simple base, gentle cleansing, a suitable moisturizer and sunscreen during the day are often enough. Toners, essences and multiple serums are optional extras – they don't all have to go on your skin at once.
In the evening, remove makeup and sunscreen thoroughly but gently, then apply your moisturizer. In the morning, cleanse as your skin needs, follow with moisturizer if you need it, then sunscreen. If a generous layer of sunscreen already feels nourishing enough, you can skip the separate moisturizer underneath – but that doesn't reduce how much sunscreen you need.
If you have a moisturizer you like, keep it. If you're looking for one, the Pyunkang Yul Moisture Cream is one option. Where possible, change one step at a time so you can tell what you miss. Don't stop using products prescribed by your doctor on your own.
How to use
My new serum stings. Should I keep using it?
If a serum stings or burns, stop using it: skincare doesn't have to be uncomfortable to work.
Thu's answer
If your serum burns, gently rinse it off with lukewarm water and stop using it for now. Burning is not a reliable sign that an active ingredient is working especially well. Even an expensive or highly praised product may not suit your skin, so you don't have to finish it.
For now, leave out other active serums and exfoliants and keep your routine simple. A cool, damp compress can feel soothing; don't rub the area. If even a cream you used to tolerate starts to burn, don't try new products one after another. If the burning is severe or doesn't go away, or you notice significant swelling or blisters, have the reaction checked by a doctor.
Keep the packaging with the ingredient list and write down what else you applied beforehand. This can help narrow down the cause. A reaction alone can't tell you whether a single ingredient, the combination or something else is behind it.
How to use
Can I use retinol and an exfoliant on the same evening?
Especially when you're starting out, it's usually more comfortable to use retinol and exfoliants on separate evenings, with a simple routine in between.
Thu's answer
If retinol is new to your routine, I wouldn't combine it with an exfoliant on the same evening. Both can irritate the skin, and together they make dryness, stinging or flaking more likely. This also applies to AHA or BHA exfoliants and to strong peeling pads. More active ingredients at once doesn't automatically mean better results.
Start with one product, following its instructions, and see how your skin reacts. An extra exfoliation step isn't essential. If both products suit you later on, using them on separate evenings is a sensible option, with just cleansing and a familiar moisturizer in between. Spacing them out doesn't guarantee your skin will tolerate both, though. If you notice burning or significant redness, stop using the products that irritate you.
Sunscreen is essential during the day. Avoid retinol and other retinoids during pregnancy. If you're trying to conceive or are using a skin treatment prescribed by your doctor, check with your doctor which skincare is right for you.
How to use
How much sunscreen do I need, and when should I reapply?
A generous, even layer and regular reapplication outdoors make the difference.
Thu's answer
A small dab, like you'd use for a day cream, usually isn't enough. Two generous lines of sunscreen along your index and middle fingers are a rough everyday guide for the face. This isn't an exact measure: finger length, tube opening and face size all vary. Your neck, ears and other exposed areas need extra. Spread it evenly and follow the amount recommended on your product.
Outdoors, choose at least SPF 30 with UVA and UVB protection. Apply it before you go out, and reapply about every two hours outdoors, as well as after swimming, heavy sweating or towel-drying. For swimming and sports, you need a water-resistant product – and you still need to reapply. Shade and clothing are part of sun protection too.
One example for everyday use is the SKIN1004 Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum SPF50+. With any product, the key is to apply enough of it. Reapplying keeps up your protection, but it doesn't extend how long you can safely stay in the sun.
How to use
Do I have to double cleanse every evening?
Double cleansing can help with stubborn makeup, but it isn't a must every evening.
Thu's answer
No, using two cleansers isn't a requirement for a good evening routine. What matters is what you need to remove and whether your cleanser can do that gently. If you wear waterproof makeup or long-wearing sunscreen, a cleansing oil or balm can make the first step easier. Often, though, one suitable cleanser is enough.
When you double cleanse, the oil or balm is followed by a water-based cleanser. Follow the directions for both products and massage gently without scrubbing. More foam, longer massaging or very hot water don't make cleansing more effective. Dry or sensitive skin in particular can feel tight after too much washing.
So you can adjust your cleansing to the evening. If one step removes your products well and your skin feels comfortable afterwards, you don't need to add another. If stubborn eye makeup is left behind, a dedicated eye makeup remover can do the job instead of washing your whole face again.
How to use
How do I safely try a new skincare product?
A small patch test and only one new product at a time make it easier to see how your skin reacts.
Thu's answer
Start by giving a new product a small place in your routine. If you only try one new thing at a time, it's easier to tell what caused a reaction. Your familiar products can stay in the meantime – you don't need to overhaul your whole routine.
You can first try a simple cream on a small patch of intact skin on your inner forearm and watch it for seven to ten days. Use the intended amount and follow the directions. Rinse-off products are rinsed off during the test too. Please don't apply retinol or exfoliants more often just because it's a small test area.
A patch test with no reaction doesn't rule out an allergy or later irritation, and it doesn't replace a medical allergy test. If you notice burning, itching or redness, wash the product off and take a break. If symptoms are severe or don't go away, see a doctor. If everything stays calm, you can carefully start using the product on your face.
Routine
Why does my skin feel tight after washing?
Tightness after cleansing is a sign to gently adjust your cleanser, water temperature and moisturizer.
Thu's answer
If your skin feels tight after washing, the cleansing may have been too much for it. Hot water, vigorous rubbing or a harsh, stripping cleanser can dry it out and irritate it. That feeling isn't part of getting clean, and washing again usually won't make it any better.
Try lukewarm water and a mild cleanser applied with your fingertips. Gently pat dry with a soft towel, then apply a moisturizer your skin tolerates well while it's still slightly damp. If you use several cleansing steps, first check whether you really need them all to remove your products.
You don't need a whole new skincare range right away. It's often worth cleansing more gently and for less time first. If the tightness continues, you notice significant redness, or even simple products start to burn, have your skin checked by a dermatologist.
Choosing products
Does oily skin even need a moisturizer?
Even shiny skin can need hydration – what matters is a texture it feels comfortable with.
Thu's answer
Yes, oily skin can benefit from a moisturizer too. Shine on your forehead and nose doesn't mean your skin is already well hydrated. But you don't need a heavy cream: a light gel or lotion often feels nicer, especially if rich textures sit on your skin for a long time.
Apply your moisturizer after cleansing and notice how your skin feels during the day. If it still feels tight, that moisturizer may not be the right fit. If you're prone to breakouts, a “non-comedogenic” label can help you choose – but it doesn't guarantee every face will tolerate the product equally well.
One lightweight option is the Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel. If your current moisturizer feels comfortable and works well, there's no need to change it.
Choosing products
Do all the products in my routine have to be from the same brand?
You can mix brands; what matters is each individual product, how you use it and how well your skin tolerates it.
Thu's answer
No. Your cleanser can be from a different brand than your moisturizer or sunscreen. What counts is the individual product, its ingredients and how it's meant to be used. A complete product line can make choosing easier, but it isn't required for a routine that works. If you already like your cleanser, you don't have to replace it just because you add a new cream.
When you combine products, pay special attention to whether they do the same job. An exfoliating toner plus an exfoliating serum can be too much – and the same can happen with several intensive products from one brand. So introduce new products one at a time and patch test them first, following the directions. That makes it easier to see what your skin tolerates. If you're unsure about your combination, send Thu the exact product names and your previous order. You don't need to replace a whole skincare range.
Simplify your routine
Do I need a toner if I already use a moisturizer?
A toner can add extra hydration, but it isn't a must: if your moisturizer is enough, your routine can stay small.
Thu's answer
No, a toner isn't a required step. If your current moisturizer keeps your skin comfortable, you don't need to add anything before it. Toners are usually more liquid than creams and, depending on the formula, can add extra hydration. Whether you enjoy that extra layer depends on your skin and your preferences. The number of products says little about how well a routine suits you.
If you'd like a lightweight extra, the Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner is one example of a hydrating step after cleansing, followed by your moisturizer if you need it. When choosing, look closely at the type of toner: an exfoliating toner with acids does a different job and should be used according to its own directions. The word “toner” alone doesn't tell you how often a product belongs in your routine. Happy with your current toner? Then there's no need to replace it just because something new comes along.
How to use
In what order should I apply my skincare?
After cleansing come your extra steps, then moisturizer, and sunscreen in the morning – always following the directions on the pack.
Thu's answer
After cleansing come the leave-on products. If you use a hydrating toner or serum, you usually apply it before your moisturizer. In the morning, finish with sunscreen, followed by makeup if you wear it. You don't need sunscreen in the evening. For a routine with just a few products, the order is simple: cleanse, moisturize and, during the day, protect.
With several layers, it often helps to go from thinnest to thickest. That doesn't apply to every product, though: the directions on the pack come first, especially for exfoliants or retinol. You don't need to add an extra step just because it appears in a longer routine. Put the products you already have in order – it makes the next morning easier. You'll find a clear explanation in our guide to morning and evening skincare.
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