Maybe niacinamide is already in your bathroom without you having bought it specifically. The ingredient can be found in toners, creams and sun protection as well as in serums, on the front of which it is advertised in large letters.

Before you add another bottle, take a look at the ingredients of your previous skincare product. This often leads to the more pleasant question: What do I actually want from my routine?

A vitamin with multiple roles

Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3. For cosmetic care, studies on the skin barrier, pigmentation and oily shine are particularly interesting. A single ingredient can have different tasks. That doesn’t make it the right answer to every skin concern. DermNet: Nicotinamide

The skin barrier is, among other things, about limiting water loss. A study examined niacinamide on both skin cells and dry skin and found evidence of support for the skin’s own lipid formation and barrier function. This provides a technical basis for its use in care creams. Tanno et al.: Niacinamide and skin barrier

For greasy shine there are studies with a two percent niacinamide skincare product. The results differed depending on the group examined and the measured variable. This is an indication of potential benefit, not a promise that any bottle of niacinamide will keep your skin matte all day. Draelos et al.: Niacinamide and sebum

For uneven pigmentation , among other things, a moisturizer with five percent niacinamide was examined. In a small, controlled sub-trial, pigment spots improved compared to the comparison treatment. The finding applies to the formulation examined and cannot be transferred unchanged to every serum. Hakozaki et al.: Niacinamide and pigmentation

If traces remain after pimples, it helps to differentiate between pimple marks, pigment spots and scars. One product for a more even skin tone is not equally useful for all three changes.

Which concentration is correct?

Two, five or ten percent look like a ranking on a packaging. However, the studies above do not provide such a ranking: they examined different formulas and different questions.

A higher number is therefore not in itself a better reason to buy. Check whether you like the texture, whether the other ingredients match your selection and whether your existing skincare product might already cover the problem. A working cream does not have to make room for a new serum.

Niacinamide or hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant: it binds water. Niacinamide is used, among other things, because of its described role in the skin barrier. The tasks are different, but can complement each other in a formulation. The entire formula and its application are also crucial for moisture. DermNet: humectants and moisturizers

If your skin feels dry above all else, the decision does not have to be “hyaluronic acid versus niacinamide”. A pleasantly formulated moisturizer can contain both. You can find out more about water binding in our article about hyaluronic acid and its use.

And together with vitamin C?

You may come across the rule on the Internet that these two should never touch skin together. This doesn’t fit as a general formulation ban: According to the published list of ingredients, the COSRX The Vitamin C 13 Serum contains both ascorbic acid and niacinamide. Bloom & Glow: Ingredients of the COSRX Vitamin C 13 Serum

However, a fully developed formula is different than mixing two serums together in your hand. For separate products, check the respective instructions and introduce them individually. This way you can better see what your skin feels comfortable with. You don’t have to use both to make your routine “complete.”

When choosing between the two, also read Vitamin C: Use and Storage . The vitamin C form plays an important role in this comparison.

A product to classify

According to the manufacturer, the AXIS-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum contains five percent niacinamide, as well as glycerin, squalane and sodium hyaluronate, a form of hyaluronic acid. The combination shows specifically that niacinamide and hyaluronic acid do not have to be opposites. AXIS-Y recommends a small amount on the face or selected areas. AXIS-Y: Formula and Application

In the same ingredient list there is rosemary leaf oil. If you avoid this ingredient, look for a different formulation. The name of the main active ingredient only tells part of the story of a product.

You can find more niacinamide products and complementary moisturizers at Balancing skin tone .

A quiet start is enough

The American Academy of Dermatology recommends testing new skincare products on small areas for seven to ten days. Stick to the application of the specific product. If redness, itching or swelling occurs, it is washed off and not used again. However, an inconspicuous preliminary test does not guarantee long-term tolerability. AAD: Test new care

Make a note of which new product has been added. This makes it easier to ask questions later, even if you get help with your selection from us. If your skin is already or burning , that is its own issue.

The overview ingredients in K-Beauty helps you to sort other care terms according to your concerns.

What we know for sure

• Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3. The ingredients list says “niacinamide”.
• Studies on the skin barrier, sebum and pigmentation examine specific formulations.
• The percentage alone does not say which care suits you better.
• Niacinamide can be formulated together with hyaluronic acid or vitamin C. The finished products remain crucial.

Sources

• DermNet: Nicotinamide
• Tanno et al. (2000): Niacinamide, skin lipids and barrier function
• Draelos et al. (2006): The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production
• Hakozaki et al. (2002): Niacinamide and pigmentation
• DermNet: Emollients and moisturizers
• Bloom & Glow: COSRX The Vitamin C 13 Serum
• AXIS-Y: Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum
• AAD: How to test skincare products

If you are primarily concerned with dark spots, a niacinamide serum can be your first targeted step. Our serums for pigment spots address this desire for a more even complexion. Supplementary care for dark spots also includes your daily sun protection.

Continue with your routine

• Discover skincare Reduce pigment spots
• Discover skincare Refine pores
• Your selection guide Understanding ingredients